![]() My clumsy assessment of it is that it looks like it keeps the circuit NC until energized, at which point it swings to close another circuit that puts the feed to ground? So maybe this is the one that actually limits the voltage (by breaking the circuit that would energize the alternator field when voltage exceeds ~14.5V), and the non-spring loaded one is just there to make sure power isn't coming into the VR unless the ignition's on (Green-red wire from ignition switch to energize the solenoid?) But I don't know how or what to troubleshoot on the other (springloaded) solenoid. So I sanded the points a bit and bent the tab so that when it's energized, the circuit closes. The non-springloaded one had pitting on the points and the tab was bent in a way that even when the solenoid was energized with a known +12v, the points weren't close enough to close. I'm anxious to learn what the theory is behind which one does what, if y'all could teach me. Once I get those all hooked up right, can we turn to the VR? I popped off the top, and there are two solenoids - one is springloaded and the other isn't. So does the Black-Red need to hook up to the GRD post? Can y'all correct me if I'm all messed up? From cruising the VTCI site, it looks like the small beige-brown or white-silver wire that terminates in a female connector up at the VR should be hooked up to the STA post (I think Bob C said this in a post?). Looks like Black-Yellow whould go from BAT post on alternator to starter solenoid. White one should be the Field, going from FLD post on alternator to F terminal on VR. A big Black-Red, a big Black-Yellow, a small white, and a small one that looks to be Beige-Brown (or maybe White-Silver?). Unfortunately, Jim Osborn's schematics are pretty unclear to me as far as which terminal gets what wire. YMMV.How's it going guys! Got a question for y'all about wiring up my brand new alternator in my '65. It’s the right one that was troublesome on my car. I don’t know how to weigh the variables like driving habits, storage, accessories, mods, etc, but in my case, I’m making an annual inspection of both firewall connector plugs. ![]() They get corroded or melt.Įxperience finds me agreeing with all of this. Then there's those pesky bulkhead connectors on the firewall. I would simply unhook the alt and see if the load goes away. The low voltage would suggest a bad diode in the alt. If the charging voltage isn't up around 14.x then either the alt. My first thought would be the alternator. While it's reported as current, what is actually sent to the meter is a tiny voltage. The difference in voltage from side to side of the shunt is sent to the meter (never apply 12V to the meter movement). The higher the current, the higher the voltage drop. The shunt is a precision resistor that has a voltage drop across it that is directly proportional to the amount of current passing thorugh it. It may look like it's supplied by two wires form the same source but there's a small "shunt" between those wires. This is seems strange that the power is supplied to both wires from the same 'hot' post.Īnyone have some wisdom on how this actually works with both wires on the same post? the anemeter is supplied with power by the yellow wire and the red wire from the 12 volt battery side of the stater relay/soleniod. ![]() We are having some challenges understanding the wiring diagrams in the orange repair manual and color coded maps we purchased. It is somewhere in-between.Ģ) We have 12 volts at the yellow wire going into the alternator regulator.ģ) We have 12 volts on the white wire at the alternator and 9 volts on the black yellow at the alternator.ġ) the anemeter since other forum posts suggest pulling this and checking connections.ģ) Worn wires going through the fire wall. So the issue isn't related to the fuse box or downstream systems. Car runs fine otherwise although we do have a voltage drop when engaging the lights and sequential turns (which seems normal since these pull power).ġ) We've pulled every fuse from the fuse box but still get 2 amp draws on the single red wire and the black/yellow wire at the starter relay. We have put in a battery isolator switch so the battery doesn't drain while sitting. One issue that we have yet to resolve is a 2 amp short in the car. Hydraulics, lights, sequential lights, most window motors, alternator, etc etc have been restored or replaced. I very much enjoyed driving our 66 convertible project around the countryside of Southern Ontario this past summer.
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